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Can't Seem To Leave!!
Originally, the port
Capitania in Puerto Ayora, on Isla Santa Cruz, gave our boat a stay of 3 days in
the Galapagos out of a maximum 20. That became extended to 15 days when we
explained to him that the minor infection in my leg was taking a long time to
heal and we didn’t want to risk setting sail with it in that condition. It was
a somewhat truthful excuse. Then, after the 15 days expired, a ‘deal’ was
struck between us and the Capitania and we received another extension of a week.
Now, it has been 6 weeks and we are still here. We have been kind of avoiding
the Capitania, since we aren’t really sure how he feels about our self imposed
extension. We also knew that all of our back street sneaking wasn’t going to
last forever and sooner or later we would end up meeting with him. Then, last
week, we woke up to find out that our dinghy was gone!! It blew away with the
night wind and a quick calculation determined it should be somewhere on the
shore. But, before we went searching, we had to have some breakfast and do a
little tanning on the boat to get the day started, sometimes being on vacation
can be hard work and we have to keep things in perspective. A few minutes after
our arrival on land, via a water taxi, our good friend Paddy the tour guide had
a lead,…the Capitania found it!! ‘Oh Great!’ We walked up to the Port Officina
and sure enough the first thing the Capitania asks us, in Spanish,…’When are you
guys leaving?’ It is lucky that we don’t speak much Spanish and we weren’t able
to understand the extra adjectives he was using in the question. ‘Possibly mas
Tardes’(maybe later) we replied,…we always reply. Then he informs us that it
was rescued by one of his personnel who ended up slipping on the lava shore and
cutting his leg bad enough to put him in the hospital. Just when we were laying
low trying not to create any problems for the Capitania, our dinghy goes and
puts one of his personnel in the hospital. We ended up getting our dinghy back
with some fumbled Spanish excuses on why we haven’t left yet, including 'Muchas
Chicas' which was received with a smile. So, we didn’t receive any real
hassle from the Capitania about still being here. I mean he is on our ‘payroll’
now so, there really shouldn’t be any problem. Some quick thinking by Kjell,
also made the dinghy rescuers leg feel better with a nice bottle of whiskey
gratitude. Unfortunately, for the dinghy, it opened up some old wounds on the
rocks and now when we drive it we have to use one arm for steering, one arm for
bailing water and one foot for pumping air, continuously.
So
now, we can’t get the motor started on the boat (again) and haven’t been able to
for the past 4 weeks. But our new ‘retired’ attitudes have taught us not to
worry about such inconveniences, and each day we go through the routine of
turning the key, spraying some quick start and then after a few minutes of
listening to the sputtering of the engine, we conclude that it won’t start today
and we will try again tomorrow. Our new attitudes have also enabled us to
receive, for free!, a 2 month Galapagos Cruising permit allowing us to stay and
cruise in the Galapagos without any more Capitania ‘deals’. This means we are
able to leave the confinement of our current port and sail to the other 3 port
islands, if we ever get the motor running. But, with the beauty of the sea, sun
and sand in our backyard here in Puerto Ayora, repairing the motor has easily
moved to the bottom of our priority list. What do we really need a motor for
anyway? It is a ‘sail’boat. Sailors have been sailing in these waters for
centuries prior to the invention of the motor, and we do consider ourselves to
be sailors!
The
town of Puerto Ayora is a great little place. Since our arrival, we have been
welcomed into the community and it is impossible for us to walk down the street
without at least 10 different locals waving to us, or stopping for a traditional
handshake greeting and, if you are a lady, a kiss on the cheek! Kjell and I
always have a laugh when we think about the fact that most people who visit the
Galapagos spend thousands to get here and only stay a week or two, rushing
through one of the tours that are available. We have spent a total of $188
($100 of that for the ‘deal’) and have been here 6 weeks with the possiblity of
staying another two months with our new Cruising Permit, if we choose to. We
must be doing something right.
-Unfortunately, the destiny
of my camera has left us unable to document the past few weeks with regular
photos. Another one is on the way. However, I managed to meet up with an
Australian traveler, Shelly Brennan, who had the advantage of taking one of the
many tours to some of the other Islands here in the Galapagos and is letting me
use her Photos for our Website. On these tours you get to experience a
Galapagos that you don’t see or feel here on Santa Cruz. The animals are
uncharacteristically unafraid of humans on these Islands and you are able to get
very close for some unbelievable memories and great photos.
Swallow-tail Gulls Bartolome
Sombrero Chino Isla de Rabida
Masked Booby
South Plaza South
Plaza Isla de Rabida
Iguana Carcass Bartolome
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Click on Photo to enlarge.
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Baby Sea Lion
Marine Iguana
 
Frigate Bird
Baby Booby
 
Mom with Baby On
Espanola
 
Marine Iguana Land
Tortoise
 
Land Iguana
Sally-lightfoot
Frigates Mating
 
Albatrosses
Courting |
English
